Mojo Pickups: The Knowledge Base

Your Essential Guide to Better Tone, Hand-Wound in the UK

Whether you are a seasoned luthier or a first-time tinkerer, getting the most out of your guitar starts with understanding exactly what is under the bonnet. At Mojo Pickups, we are incredibly passionate about vintage-spec accuracy and creating unique tonal textures.

Consequently, this page serves as your definitive go-to resource for technical guides, installation tips, and deep dives into the science behind the “Mojo.” Please note that these guides are a work in progress; therefore, they will be updated periodically to ensure you have the latest information.

1. The Fundamentals

Before diving into the hardware, it is helpful to understand the principles of guitar electronics. Explore the sections below to build your foundation:

  • How Guitar Pickups Work: An introduction to electromagnetism and tone. [Here]

  • A Comprehensive Guide to Alnico Magnets: Understanding the differences between Alnico 2, 3, 4, and 5. [Here]

  • The Mojo Method: Specifically, how I make them and why the hand-winding process matters. [Here]

  • 4-Conductor Wiring: A guide to coil tapping, series, and parallel options. [Here]

  • Tone Capacitor and pot guide. [Here]
  • Understanding DC Resistance [Here]

2. Specific Pickup Guides

If you are looking for details on a particular model, we have categorised our most popular designs here:

  • The Stratocaster: Achieving that classic bell-like chime. [Here]

  • Tele & ’68 Tele: From country twang to rock bite. [Here] and [Here]

  • The PAF: Recreating the holy grail of humbucker history. [Here]

  • Gold Foil: Unlocking unique, lo-fi vintage textures. [Here]

  • Broadcaster vs 52 Telecaster [Here]

3. Professional Installation Guide

Upgrading your pickups is arguably one of the most effective ways to reshape your guitar’s character. Whether you are chasing higher output or seeking vintage warmth, the process is a true rite of passage for many players.

Essential Tools

Before you begin, ensure you have cleared a stable workspace. Furthermore, you will need to gather the following kit:

  • Soldering Iron: Ideally, a 25W to 40W iron.

  • Solder: We recommend 60/40 rosin core. Notably, beginners should avoid lead-free solder as it has a higher melting point and is harder to manipulate.

  • Screwdrivers: Typically a small Phillips head.

  • Wire Strippers/Snips: Necessary for tidying up lead wires.

  • Masking Tape: To protect your guitar’s finish from accidental solder splashes.

Step-by-Step Installation

  1. Document the Current Wiring: Firstly, before desoldering anything, take a high-quality photo of the existing setup. Specifically, note which wires connect to the volume pot, tone pot, and selector switch. This acts as your “get out of jail free” card should you become confused later.

  2. Remove the Old Pickups: Next, loosen or remove the strings and unscrew the mounting rings or pickguard. Once you have access, heat the solder joints on the pots or switches and gently pull the old wires away as the solder flows.

  3. Prepare the New Pickups: Following this, feed the new wires through the body channels. You should then “tin” the wires by applying a small amount of fresh solder to the ends of the leads. Consequently, this ensures a much stronger and faster bond when attaching them to the components.

  4. Solder the Connections: Ground Wire: Usually attached to the back of a volume pot. Ensure the pot casing is hot enough to accept the solder; however, be careful not to hold the iron there too long, or you risk damaging the internal components. Hot Wire: This typically connects to the input lug of the volume pot or the selector switch. (Note: You can find the Mojo wire colour codes [here]. Please be aware that other manufacturers often use different colour schemes.)

  5. The Tap Test: Finally, before restringing, plug the guitar into an amp at a low volume. Tap the pickup pole pieces with a screwdriver. If you hear a clear “thump,” your signal path is successfully live!

[!IMPORTANT] Safety First: If you are not entirely comfortable using a soldering iron, we always recommend taking your instrument to a qualified guitar tech. Ultimately, a burnt pot or a cold solder joint can lead to frustrating intermittent signals or a total loss of tone.

4. Fine-Tuning Your Tone

The work does not simply stop once the pickups are soldered in. To truly get the most out of your investment, you must learn how to “dial in” your Mojo.

Finding the “Perfect” Pickup Height

Let’s be clear: the “perfect” pickup height is something of a myth. In many ways, it is like the perfect cup of tea—everyone has a different opinion on how long the bag should stay in.

While manufacturers provide “factory specs,” these are merely a starting point. The real magic happens when you trust your ears.

The Starting Line

If you have lost your way, start with these baseline measurements. Measure the distance between the bottom of the string and the top of the pole piece while holding the string down at the very last fret.

Pickup Type Bass Side (Low E) Treble Side (High E)
Humbuckers 2.5 mm 2.0 mm
Single Coils 3.5 mm 2.5 mm
P90s 3.0 mm 2.5 mm

The Physics of the Tweak

Essentially, the closer the pickup is to the strings, the stronger the magnetic field. This impacts your sound in the following ways:

  • Moving Closer (Up): This increases output and “grit,” resulting in a punchier, more aggressive sound. However, if you go too high, you may lose sustain or experience “Stratitis”—where the magnets pull the strings out of tune.

  • Moving Away (Down): This decreases output but increases clarity and “air.” As a result, you get a more dynamic, woody tone with better sustain. Conversely, if the pickups are too low, the signal will become weak and thin.

The “Ear Test” Method

Once the baseline is set, put the ruler away and follow these steps:

  1. Check the Balance: Switch between the neck and bridge. Usually, the bridge needs to be slightly closer to the strings to compensate for the lower vibration amplitude at that end of the guitar.

  2. String-to-String Volume: Play a full chord. If the Low E is boomy while the High E is whispering, simply tilt the pickup slightly to balance the volume.

  3. The Sweet Spot: Turn your amp up to its usual “sweet spot.” Adjust the height by half-turns until the guitar feels “alive.”

The Golden Rule: If it sounds good to you, it is good. Do not let a forum purist tell you your pickups are “too low” if you love that glassy chime. It is your gear; make it work for your hands.

5. Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)

Q: Do you offer custom-wound pickups? A: Yes, absolutely. If you have a specific tonal goal or a unique build in mind, please get in touch. We love a challenge; however, please appreciate that bespoke parts can be more expensive to manufacture.

Q: What is the difference between Alnico 2, 3, 4, and 5? A: Generally speaking, Alnico 2 is softer and more “musical,” whereas Alnico 5 is punchier with a sharper “attack.” For a deeper comparison, read our full magnet guide [here].

Q: Can I install these myself? A: Provided you are comfortable with a soldering iron, then yes! If not, we always suggest visiting a professional tech to ensure the best possible results.

Need Further Assistance?

Can’t find the specific diagram or advice you’re looking for? Google is your best friend; it will usually find you everything you require.

Whether you are a seasoned luthier or a first-time tinkerer, getting the most out of your guitar starts with understanding what’s under the bonnet. At Mojo Pickups, we’re passionate about vintage-spec accuracy and unique tonal textures.

This page is your go-to resource for technical guides, installation tips, and deep dives into the science of “Mojo.”

These guides are work in progress and will be updated from time to time.

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